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30 July 2011

El Dorado Not Quite Golden .... Yet

The El Dorado offers a spacious dance floor, a cozy balcony
and a pleasantly accessible stage.
(BAZ Staff Photo)


- by K. I. Jaidov

If you weren't able to attend the long anticipated opening of the El Dorado Club, don't despair. You didn't really miss all that much. It was most likely impossible for anyone or anything to live up to the lofty expectations that had been set for opening day, and it didn't. The event provided a new venue for the same familiar people to do the same familiar things in the same familiar ways. A sort of Der Keller Happy Hour with lower light, nicer dresses and bawdier humor.

Still, the new club fairly throbs with potential. It is lit up enough to see, but dark enough to to keep things as interesting as one might wish for. It lacks much in the way of seating, but this may encourage people to dance and mingle instead of planting themselves on a stool at the bar. There's room enough for a lot of dancers, and the stage is small and set low, creating a sense of connection between audience and performers. As a cabaret venue it should prove far superior to the more formal Odeon. A cozy balcony rings the upper level, providing a bit of privacy along with open views of the activity below.

Fr Yardly and Fr Morales officially open the El Dorado.
(BAZ Staff Photo)

There was, by Berlin standards, a large crowd - over thirty at one point. Short speeches from Sonatta Morales and Jo Yardley marked the official opening of the club and entertainment was  provided by Lydia Yalin and Myron Byron. A most unfortunate server glitch brought the festivities to a sudden, albeit temporary halt, from which they soon made a resilient and good natured recovery. Alts were very much in evidence, although nothing much went on that you could not have told you mother about - or had her along to see.

"Masculine Women and Feminine Men"? Not on opening
day, when a mostly traditional crowed packed the club.
(BAZ Staff Photo)
What was missing, and what we may reasonably hope will assert itself over the next few weeks, was any sense of a unique and different personality. In a sense, the club may have been victimized by the reputation of its historical predecessor. "Notorious" takes time. It isn't something that anyplace or anyone starts out as because of good marketing. The El Dorado has what it takes to achieve notoriety. Or perhaps something else altogether. As the crowd of curious voyeurs gives way to one of more regular and devoted followers, "The Golden One" will see its own style emerge. There is no reason to think that it will not become the place to be (if not to be seen) in central Berlin. Give it a week for the dust to settle, and then stop in and decide for yourself.


29 July 2011

Spy Noir Returns!

[Rampant speculation that the mysterious Spy Noir was retired to his secret headquarters in a large fir tree in the Schwartzenwald or enlisted in the notorious Légion étrangère has turned out to be unfounded, as this typed mansucript found slipped under the BAZ's door clearly proves. - Ed. ]




He didn't mind the beatings. They came with the territory, and the big Wachtmeister - Manbitz, he was called - tended to go easy for a few weeks after he'd taken it out on some poor bastard's hide. Put some lead in his pants most likely. But the previous week, they'd taken a liberty. The bastards had bathed him.

Into the meat wagon with him and off down Am Nussbaum, the familiar shuddering as they crossed the little metal bridge that spanned the Spree, and he stoically preparing to take the inevitable kicking. But instead they'd hung a left at the junction with Friedrichstrasse that had sent him rattling around the back of the van like a dried pea in a tobacco tin and come to a screeching halt outside the public baths.

A nun with a face like a boiled pudding, her big, raw hands clasping an empty wicker basket, stood in the entrance. The two cops marched him past her, stripped him and, each taking an arm, ran him to the edge of the pool and pitched him in.

The water was cold, and he was out of his depth. He waited for his life to flash before him, but instead all he could think about was a dog with a broken back that someone had thrown into the Spree one day, and how, its life ebbing away, it had struggled still, until its head had disappeared beneath a slick of oil that shimmered on the surface in the late evening sunshine.

Eventually his feet found tiled floor. The cops tossed a large sponge to within a metre of him and ordered him to wash himself. That indignity done with, they dressed him in corduroy trousers and a flannel shirt and took him back to the police station, where they gave him a plate of blutwurst and bread, an enamel cup of ersatz coffee and a cigarette.

"Where's Manbitz?" he'd asked nervously.

"Visiting his maiden aunt," came the reply, accompanied by laughter and knowing looks.

After his lunch, they allowed him to sleep a while in an empty cell, and then they took him up top again to where the nun he'd seen at the bath house was waiting with his clothes - the ragged woollen combinations and his old German Army uniform, damp still, but indisputably clean.

"You may thank Father Hillandale for his intervention," the nun had said.

"Go to hell," he'd replied.

And now here he was, back in his old spot at the rear of the Berlin Alexanderplatz Station, undergoing something of an existential crisis. He was so used to the smell of his own body, the sourness that rose from his clothing, that its absence made him wonder if he were gradually fading away.

Business certainly hadn't been good in the time since they'd taken their liberty. A clean beggar lacked authenticity. A clean beggar lacked essence. And he knew that the few coins in his upturned cap wouldn't keep him in drink for more than a few days. He instinctively felt for the brown bottle in his jacket pocket, felt its lightness, and decided that things were looking serious.

A man and two women, the three fashionably dressed and smoking French cigarettes, passed by his spot, one of the women first stopping then approaching, reaching into her purse for a pfennig.

“I suppose he must be the local colour,” said the man. He was tall and handsome, with dark hair worn slightly longer than was the fashion. “What are you going to give the lady for her coin then? A song? A dance? A tall story? Come on fellow, stir yourself!”

“Oh leave him alone,” said the woman. She was wearing a blue silk dress and a cloche hat. Her face was was obscured by shadow as she was standing with the streetlamp at her back. “Look, he’s an army veteran, and he’s got a bad leg.” She fumbled in her purse again and brought out a larger coin which she placed in his cap.  “Sir, is there anything we can do for you?”

“Yes,” he replied, “Get out of my damned light.”

The man laughed. “Just like Diogenes, eh? Well that's all the thanks you're going to get! Come on, let’s go. The night is young, and the only purpose of fellows like him is to allow us to thank God that we’re not them.”

He and the second female made off down Am Nussbaum, he allowing his hand to stray to her behind and she complaining unconvincingly, slapping him away and giggling like a child.

The woman who had given him the coin began to follow, but then stopped and turned, and the light from the lamp shone just for a moment full on her face.  Words for him were weapons, designed to cut or bludgeon or unbalance, but the ones he had composed for her seemed to die in his throat in an instant.

He nodded almost imperceptibly and reached for his bottle.

28 July 2011

El Dorado Finally Glitters

The long empty El Dorado Club will open to the public Saturday afternoon,
30-July-1929 at 1:00pm local (SLT) time.
(BAZ Staff Photo)
El Dorado is Spanish for "The Golden One", and expectations are high that Berlins newest entertainment and nightlife venue will be just that. In what may be the longest running tease on the Berlin entertainment scene, the
premier of Sonatta Morales' El Dorado Club seems to have finally arrived. Located at Motzstrasse #15, just east of the Main Rail Station, the club has been an empty shell for years. But all that changes on Saturday when the Grand Premier arrives at 13:00 hours SLT.

While the club is widely known to target a homosexual and "alternative" crowd, we can expect everyone to be in attendance Saturday, if only to gawk.

This addition to the Berlin entertainment scene should bring life to an oft neglected section of the city and draw visitors and tourists to the nightlife spectacle that most people anticipate the El Dorado will become. Don't miss the opening!

22 July 2011

NDL's Bremen Sets Speed Record on Maiden Transatlantic Voyage

The SS Bremen, sailing for the German Norddeutsch Lloyd (NDL) line, arrived in New York City on 16 July, 1929, just four days, 17 hours, and 42 minutes after departing from Bremerhaven. Constructed in Bremen by Deutsche Schiff un Maschinebau, AG, the Bremen was launched in August of last year by German President Paul von Hindenberg. This was her first transatlantic journey, and was made at an average speed of almost 28 knots (51.5kph), enough to wrest the westbound crossing record from the Cunard Line's RMS Mauritania.

The SS Bremen in October, 1928, shortly after passing her
initial sea trials.
(Norddeutsch Lloyd Line photo)
A second record was set on the same voyage when a Heinkle HE-12 seaplane piloted by Jobst von Studnitz was launched from a catapult on the deck of the Bremen just a few hours before it's arrival in New York with a number of mailbags. This marked the first time mail was carried by a ship-launched plane for delivery before the ship's arrival.

Because of the speed of the crossing, NDL says that it plans to provide weekly transatlantic service utilizing the Bremen and her sister ship, Europa, an operation that has previously required three ships to maintain. In maritime circles, the two ships are widely considered to be the most modern liners in the world. The high speeds and the comfort and luxury level on board make high demands of technical personnel. Each ship carries a crew of 966 - including technical and engineering crew of 170 - along with 2,139 passengers.

Art Deco Explained

- by Katyana Jaidov

When it comes to things artistic, I am challenged. I know what I like, but I don't know why. And often I am at a loss to understand what others find stirring. So it was when I entered the venerable Schloss Museum to take in Melusina Parkin's photography exhibit, "PAST FUTURE: Courses of the Art Deco Style."

Standing perplexed before the first few photographs - the only subject I even vaguely recognized was a New York City skyscraper - I started to wonder not only what I was seeing, but why I was there. Fortunately, the artist was kind (and patient) enough to include a clear, informative and interesting introduction to the Art Deco style that transformed the entire exhibit from an enigma to a fascinating exploration of style, color, texture, material, and form in art and architecture.

So don't miss this colorful and challenging introduction to one of modern art's most extensive and influential movements. But do walk straight to the far back wall and avail yourself of the tutelage that awaits you there. I guarantee you will see the exhibit with new eyes.

19 July 2011

Berlin Given "A Taste of Atlantis"

For several hours over the last weekend, Berlin's iconic Unter den Linden became Unter dem Wasser as a series of freak flash floods turned the city into an inland sea. Authorities are placing the blame on a giant Ape who apparently dammed up the Spree just as torrential summer downpours unleashed unprecedented rainfall over the city. Zeppelins and boats allowed many citizens to turn the event into a lark, while most others found safety on rooftops or even with Victoria's Quadriga atop the not quite submerged Brandenberger Tor.

The Unter dem Wasser at the height of the flooding.
(BAZ Staff Photo)
The flooding began shortly after 16:00 SLT on Sunday but seemed to be confined principally to the poorer southwest sections of the city, including the popular Der Keller dance-hall. However, after a very brief intermezzo when the waters seemed to recede, the real flooding began, drowning the Alexanderplatz and the tony Behrenstrasse neighborhood. This time there was no stopping it, and over the next half hour the waters rose to levels that placed most of the city underwater.

When the water finally did drain away late that evening, it left everything soaked but remarkably little damage and, happily, no fatalities.

Victory welcomes refugees from the rising waters atop the Brandenberg Gate.
(BAZ Staff Photo)
As Zeppelin tours enjoyed a sudden rise in popularity, all manner of craft plied the Venice-like streets - from tire inner tubes to peddle boats to steam powered launches. In an especially moving moment, Cordelia Bellingshausen continued to play bravely upon her organ as the waters rose about her, inspiring calm at that particularly tense moment. Apparently her many near drownings in the canal served her well through this latest crisis.

Weather for the next few days is forecast to be mostly sunny with only a small chance of rain, so we may hope the city dries out without further incident.