Morales Unveils New Spring Line

- Katyana Jaidov

The Berlin fashion community gathered in the rose garden atop Sonatta Morales' too long empty landmark store to view her much anticipated spring clothing line. Any concern that Sra. Morales did not intend to remain aggressively atop the European fashion industry vanished faster than the free champagne. The afternoon was chilly but the show was hot and the reaction from the well appointed audience was enthusiastic. In the end the event was everything that one might have expected from Berlin's Headmistress of Fashion.

La Morales models one of her designs
(Photo by Shasha Stransky)

In her brief address opening the show, Sra Morales said: "It is a great pleasure to present the Spione collection to such a fine crowd. This exclusive preview for Berliners inaugurates this shop. I have the pleasure and honour to to show you a collection inspired by .....a spy.... Spione. No men can keep secrets from a woman dressed like this." She then proceed to dazzle the social glitterati of Berlin with a spring line that left them tugging at the buds of the boulevard's linden trees to try to hurry the spring season along.

As the models took the stage, the audience expressed its approval in a most vocal manner, and the excitement endured throughout the show. As was to be expected these were not designs for the common woman, but rather designs to which she might aspire. No doubt many of them will be seen in the salons of the city and the lobby of the Adlon Hotel as they become available at La Morales' signature store on the Unter den Linden. It would not be possible to do justice to the entire event, but here are some highlights.

The Darien
(Photo by Patrice Cournoyer)

The first to take the stage, the Darien pink ensemble combines the prim and the provocative in a single outfit, seemingly creating the illusion of nothing at all when seen from just the right angle. This is a tease of an outfit that would suit - literally in this case -  any modern woman.


The Thames, an English name, seems to hint strongly at the fiery South American sensibilities of its designer, presenting an understated sensuous elegance and a practical versatility. This is an outfit that we will soon see everywhere. The Montenegro seems a bit overstated for the conservative tastes of Prussian Berlin, with is large feather fan, naughty lace collar and twinkling sequins, while the Boulevard, with its bright reds and golds, presents clean, simple lines that will never-the-less turn heads.

The show was themed after stealth and spying, and the Black Orchid is the outfit a spy might wear. Who could withhold a secret from a woman wearing this clinging black temptation with see through sleeves and shoulders? I was ready to confess anything to the lovely model.

The 21 Dress
(Photo by Patrice Cournoyer)

Fashion is a personal thing , of course, but the 21 Dress was my clear favorite from this show. Black, with jacket and hat and accents of white and purple, this was a stunning design. A thoroughly versatile outfit that will be comfortable out on the Berlin Boulevards, at home in the Adlon or admired in the finest shops.

The Olympique, principally an evening dress, is delightfully complex in its simplicity. Black with gold and violet accents, and sleeveless, it presents one with the delicious illusion of a plunging bodice where no such thing exists. A more modern and American look emerges with the ChatNoir. A black and clingy dress with orange feathered turban and a plunging front that is certain to attract the interest of the Berlin Police if worn outside. Not for the shy, the calf length design is an ensemble to be seen in, with nuances of foreign intrigue. Chat Noir is plumage for Berlin's peahens.

No one scores a goal on every kick, and a very few of the designs seemed to fall short. In particular, the Sands, with its fur collar and cuffs and flowing lines reminiscent of desert sands might have been better left for the Arabs. And the Sungold seemed an ambitious attempt that was not quite successful. The strappy, low cut  design is so heavily textured with color as to distract, and it almost made the model appear to be pregnant. Not the best item in the show. Save this one for New Year's Eve at the Adlon.

If you missed this show, shame on you. It was a sensuous treat and a real honor for the city. But the good news is that we will all be treated to another look at this designers latest creations when they are made available at her store. Make sure you take a look.